*: Means the item is new or recently changed.
The first and most important reason is that it is fun. It's neat being up on one wheel, in control. There are other good reasons, though:
The Quebec Unicycle Association has a page in French discussing the origin of the unicycle which describes the same view (I think). The URL is http://www.gel.ulaval.ca/~stpier02/amq/homeangl.html.
This is really a pamphlet rather than a book. It has no big secrets, but it does contain a good method for learning to ride.
Uni News is the newsletter for NZ unicyclists. It is published in conjunction with the Flying Kiwi the magazine produced quarterly by the NZ Juggling Association. Uni News provides information on the National and International scene, featuring articles on technique, construction and events. Road tests, Buy, sell & Swap. etc.
For subscription information call, fax or write the Unicycle Hotline
Phone: +64 (07) 839 9005 or 025 761 141
Fax: +64 (07) 839 9006
PO Box 776 Hamilton New Zealand
For the material it covers this is the best book on unicycling. In particular, book tells how to learn to ride, as well as a variety of beginning and intermediate skills. It also covers practical issues like unicycling attire, adjusting the unicycle, and theory.
The book is based on what are considered the most effective ways of learning. John Foss helped a lot with reviewing the manuscript and by providing excellent photographs. Much credit is also due to Bill Jenack,the founder of modern unicycling, who has developed most of the techniques introduced in the book.
The book comes with Miyata unicycles, and you can also get it from Jack Halpern while supplies last. Miyata is out of stock at the moment, and has no definite plans at this time to reprint it. In the meantime, he will be glad to send you photocopies for $15, including airmail.
The amount you send need not be $15 exactly if you send it in another currency. You should send this in cash form, not a check, since it is very difficult to cash a check in dollars in Japan. Supplies are short, so you may want to send e-mail to Jack before sending cash to verify availability. His address is:
Jack Halpern 1-3-502 3-Chome Niiza Niiza-shi Saitama 352 JAPAN E-mail: jack@kanji.org
Beirne Konarski beirne@neo.lrun.com
I think Mr. Hoehr's book is pretty good. It's a translation from German, with some resultant oddities, but on the whole I think it is comprehensive, and provides good learning progressions. The book covers learning steps, and some more advanced riding. It also has sections on specialty cycles (mainly giraffes), and a brief history section. I think that this is now one of the better books out on the subject, but could still be improved upon.
Jasan Catan CATANZ47@snycorva.cortland.edu
Angela Lahm (106647.1305@compuserve.com)
ANYONE can learn to ride a unicycle, and this step-by-step guide shows you how.From your first faltering one-wheeled wobbles to incredible feats of balance with the Giraffe Unicycle, and the Ultimate Wheel, Charlie Dancey gives you the tips and tells you the secrets that turn the impossible into reality.
With comprehensive safety advice, hints on maintaining your machine, and the rules of Unicycle Gladiators and Unicycle Jousting, this is a book that every budding unicyclist should have.
"How to ride your Unicycle" is publushed by Butterfingers Juggling Equipment and Books, ISBN 1-898591-18-0, and should be available from all good unicycle stockists, juggling shops, and the better bookstores.
Unicycling Society of America, P.O. Box 40534, Redford, MI 48240.
If you live in the UK be careful when ordering Video's from the states (or anywhere abroad), as the NTSC video system used there is not compatible with your UK PAL video. If you do order specify a PAL version of the tape, which they may or may not be able to provide !
A good video specialist could convert an NTSC video to PAL format, but this is going to cost you !
The Highway Code goes through the cycling laws and makes it fairly clear that there should be no problem with riding on the road. But forget about The Highway Code, what it *doesn't* give is a legal definition of a cycle. That's what I managed to find:
'"Cycle" means a bicycle, tricycle, or cycle having four or more wheels, not being in any case a motor vehicle.'
So cycle laws don't cover a unicycle. There is nothing about unicycles anywhere in the road traffic legislation. I'm not going to wade through the whole of English law looking for any reference to unicycling, so if anyone knows of a reference elsewhere I'd be interested. It seems that it is quite legal to ride a unicycle on the pavement in England. Does anyone know what the law says in the rest of the UK?
If anyone fancies getting a copy of this definition (you never know when it might be useful), my source is:
Halsbury's Laws of England, 4th edn, vol. 40 (Road Traffic), published in 1983 by Butterworths, London.
Danny Colyer/bs1dwc@bath.ac.ukA bicycle, by NZ law, must have AT LEAST TWO wheels. ...well, that rules out a standard unicycle instantly!
So was it a toy? In the book of NZ road religion, a toy may have a wheel diametre no larger than 355mm (14inches) INCLUDING any tyre. ...rules out the standard uni again!
therefore we came to the conclusion that in NZ, the unicycle, fell in to the category of a "vehicle" by default. this means it is quite legal to ride the unicycle on the roads, as you would any vehicle in this country, accommodating the laws of hand signals at all times, and lights at night, etc. No helmet is required (as compulsory with a bicycle in this country), no brakes or steering etc.
I guess we are lucky as I believe unicycling is not cool with authorities in some states in America... wot a bummer!
Ross Mackintosh romack@hn.planet.gen.nzFrom the "Words and Phrases Defined" division of the California Vehicle Code (http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/.html/veh_table_of_contents.html):
231. A bicycle is a device upon which any person may ride, propelled exclusively by human power through a belt, chain, or gears, and having one or more wheels. Persons riding bicycles are subject to the provisions of this code specified in Sections 21200 and 21200.5.
This definition does include giraffe unicycles, however, which is unfortunate because elsewhere the law requires that bicycles be able to leave skid marks when braking. Whether multi-wheel unicycles (in which only one wheel touches the ground, but the wheels turn against each other to propel the bottom wheel) are bicycles is an open issue.
A rider on a standard unicycle appears to be a pedestrian. Here is the definition of a pedestrian in California, again from the California Vehicle Code:
467. (a) A "pedestrian" is any person who is afoot or who is using a means of conveyance propelled by human power other than a bicycle. (b) "Pedestrian" includes any person who is operating a self-propelled wheelchair, invalid tricycle, or motorized quadricycle and, by reason of physical disability, is otherwise unable to move about as a pedestrian, as specified in subdivision (a).
Several years ago the Gonzo Unicycle Madness club at Harvey Mudd College (Claremont, CA) put the legal definitions of the bicycle and pedestrian on their club shirts, with the title "Unicycling is not a Crime".
Beirne Konarski
Jennie Hango
Craig Rogers
| Chinese: |    |
| Dutch: | eenwieler |
| English: | unicycle |
| French: | monocycle |
| German: | einrad |
| Hebrew: |  |
| Italian: | uniciclo |
| Japanese: | ichirinsha(preferred), yunisaikuru |
| Portuguese: | monociclo |
| Russian: |  |
| Spanish: | monociclo(preferred), uniciclo |
| Swedish: | enhjuling |
| Finnish: | Yksipyora |
| Greek: | monopodeloto |
Jack Halpern
Isaac Orr
Beirne Konarski
J. Alan Atherton
There is a wide variation in athletic fitness, balance perception, and reaction time among those learning to ride a unicycle. So it is difficult to predict roughly how many hours it will take to learn certain unicycling skills. An experienced unicycling instructor may be able to make a good guess after watching someone ride, but it is impossible without first seeing the rider in action.
It has taken people as short as 15 min. and as long as 6 months to learn to ride. However, it generally takes 2-6 weeks of regular practice to learn to ride and a few more weeks to learn to do turns.
Ken Fuchs - kfuchs@winternet.com
A good rule of thumb is that it will take about one week for every day it
took you to learn to ride a bike.
Ed Falk<Ed.Falk@Eng.Sun.COM>
This comes from a posting by Robert Bernstein(rbernstein@igc.apc.org):
I am a big proponent of the getting friends to help. I do not like falling down!
I learned by the MIT Unicycle Club method:
For some people, the get on, fall off do-it-yourself cycle works best. It's a matter of personality!
As dangerous as you want it to be. The vast majority of falls leave the rider on their feet, as dismounting is a skill learned while learning to ride. Most falls occur for just a few reasons: excessive speed, exhaustion, lack of attention to the road, and learning new tricks. The rider can control all of these factors to their desired comfort and safety level.
Here is the list thanks to Andy Cotter (cotter@skypoint.com). Comments in parentheses are mine.
For some advice on preparing for a level test, check out the level testing hints on the unicycle home page.
Left and right can be switched in the descriptions if you are left footed.
This could be caused by the left to right pitch or crown on most roads. Does the problem persist when riding on level ground or a floor?
This could also be caused by riding posture. Consciously try to ride with a straight back, looking forward with most of one's weight on the seat. Putting less weight on the pedals and more weight on the seat really makes riding far easier. It may take a few weeks to adjust to this better method of riding, so don't worry if things don't instantly get better.
The plane of the wheel may not intersect the seat exactly in half. In other words the frame may be bend or misaligned to the right or the left. If this is the case, try bending the frame in the other direction in a vise, protecting the chrome or paint with blocks of wood. However, the chrome or paint may crack or rinkle at the stress points of the bend.
Misaligned crankarms may also cause problems.
The seat might be cracked or flex more in one direction or the other.
The tire can be worn more on one side than the other. This occurs most commonly when the unicycle is used for gliding with predominantly one foot or the other. Not very likely unless the unicycle is used for gliding.
Worn bearings or other unicycle parts could even be a factor, but really not likely to cause "twisting to the right" or left.
The reviews of manufacturers and retailers that follow are written by individuals who are not associated with the companies they review. Please do not write to the reviewers asking for product information. Instead contact the companies themselves or dealers selling their products.
The Standard and Deluxe Miyata both have an extremely loyal following, and have been used by nearly every world champion unicyclist thus far. They also make a 5' blue painted giraffe unicycle.
For more information write to semcycle@aol.com or go to http://members.aol.com/semcycle/
The Semcycle reviewer is John Foss (jfoss@unicycling.com).
Tel: +49 431 541441
Fax: +49 431 549099
E-mail: gsiegmon@kernphysik.uni-kiel.d400.de
We produce our own brand SIEGMONO. The idea of our unicycle production is to distinguish between three kinds of components: a) crucial, b) not so crucial and c) individual. As a result the SIEGMONOs consist of a strong wheel (strong axle and crank arms), a relatively cheap fork (Taiwanese) and one of three saddles (a contoured one which is completely resilient to hitting the street, a symmetric Pashley like model with bumpers and a saddle similar to the Semcycle).
Written by Georg Siegmon of Siegmono-Cycle.
DM's giraffes are works of art with twin chains for real durability and no twist. The only complaint is that they're a bit heavy, but they're built to last. DM's classic design is the 5' to 8' convertible, where the frame has a 3' extension tube and a long set of chains.
Review written by Peter Lister(p.lister@cranfield.ac.uk). For sales information contact DM engineering by snail mail, email(DMUNICYCLES@LDS.CO.UK) or a retailer.
For catalogs, advice or further information call Tom Miller at (765) 452-2692. (Sorry, no e-mail)
WWW: http://www.tux.org/~bagleyd/unicycle_factory/index.html
Review written by John Foss.
The older Pashley's have one screw holding each bearing to the fork. Once these get stripped (it won't take long), you are out of luck.
Pashley has been actively involved in developing a specific machine for mountain unicycling. Their products are the most cost effective way of riding uni's off-road and new products are in the pipeline. The bearings are double bolted into the forks, and show no trace of looseness. The saddle is contoured, completely resilient to hitting the concrete (still looks like new), and comfortable. The weight is about 6Kg, which is not excessively heavy. After a year of use (by Chris Hughes) the whole thing is like new except for tyre wear and bashed pedals.
Review written by:
Chris Hughes,
Duncan Castling, and
Beirne Konarski
Additional information, provided by Matt Dekker of Dekker Service, an importer and distributor (not retailer) of Pashley products:
The Pashley Muni is available in either a 20" or 26" wheel, with an aluminum rim, knobby tire, 36 hole steel Suzue hub, and stainless spokes. The bearings are similar to what Pashley uses on their industrial grade trikes, an alloy housing surrounding a large cartridge bearing. The alloy housing extends roughly two inches into the fork and is held in by two bolts and nyloc nuts per side. The cranks are "bullet proof" cotterless steel, 5" on the 20" and 6" on the 26". Pedals are double sided platform BMX style. The saddle is asymmetrical, with the rear of the saddle flared upwards a bit. The standard colors are gunmetal gray or brilliant blue. There is a braze on water bottle cage mount on the front of the seat tube.
Brett Bymaster has written an in-depth review of the Pashley Muni on his web page at http://shay.ecn.purdue.edu/%7ebymaster/muni/munipics.html.
For more information contact Cyclepro or a dealer.
Review written by Peter Lister(p.lister@cranfield.ac.uk). For sales information contact Bogglefingers by snail mail, or a retailer.
The unis are medium quality: they are definitely superior to the generic kind that probably all come from the same factory in Taiwan. They have a tubular fork with a sloping face where the Miatas have a flat one. The fork is very lightweight, but very strong. It is chromed from top to bottom.
The seat is (in my opinion) very comfortable. It is made out of a hard plastic frame with black foam molded around it. It is very easy to catch when dismounting either forwards or backwards. This is a good thing, since there is NO protection for the seat (like a metal bar, or a plastic piece). The first damage that happens to them is that the foam cracks in the front as a result of falling on the ground. The seat uses a standard Schwinn seat mount (the curved piece of metal with four oval holes) so you can easily replace the seat. Seats that fit this mounting style are easy to come by.
The seat post connects to the frame by a standard seat clamp. People have a lot of trouble keeping these tight enough to resist rotation during tricks. One solution is to put a machine screw through the fork and post just to hold the alignment and keep the clamp to transfer the rider's weight. The metal is almost definitely too thin to handle system like Schwinn unis use.
There's not much to be said about the wheel. It's got a chromed rim and some spokes. It seems to be well built. It comes with a black tire that looks sharp with the black pedals and seat. The biggest problem in the design is in the axle. The axles of the unis belonging to our two most demanding riders (hopping, curbs, jump mounts, etc.) have been sheared off at the connection between the crank arm and the axle. This does not bode well for long-term reliability. These unis were less than six months old when they broke. The bike shop has been very friendly about getting them repaired, though.
The bearing mounts are also only rank 5 on a scale of 1 to 10. They are mounted directly at the end of the fork, providing a good metal to metal fit. From the bottom, though, four small bolts hold a piece of metal over them to keep them connected to the fork. This looks like an accident waiting to happen, since the bolts are very small, but we have had no problems with it. I suppose I am spoiled by what I consider a 10: the Schwinn method of surrounding the bearing with 1/4 inch steel.
The pedals are standard bicycle types of some sort. They have reflectors and little pegs to help keep your foot on. They work ok, but this is another place where there is room for modification. The cranks connect to the axle just like a Schwinn -- no bolts to forever be tightening here! They are 180mm long, from end to end (155mm from center to center).
All in all, I'd say that for the $100 we paid (I think we got a slight bulk discount) these unis are good beginner models. If you buy one, and really get into the sport, don't expect it to last much more than a year or two. Use it to learn on, then buy a real uni, like a Semcycle or a Miyata.
The company can be reached at (US only, sorry) 800-869-9866. They only sell to dealers, but they can probably find you a dealer in your area. The bike shop we (the HMC uni club) does business with is Mulrooney's Sea Schwinn in Newport Beach. Their number is (714) 646-7706.
Review written by Jeff R. Allen jeff@hmc.edu
For more information contact Cycle Designs or a dealer.
Phone: 1-800-251-6336
WWW: http://www.coker.com/collect/bigone.html
Sells Juggleart and DM unicycles.
Sells 20" and 24" unicycles, as well as 5-foot giraffes.
Sells inexpensive 20" and 24" unicycles. The brand is also available in bike shops.
Sells their own unicycles, imported from Taiwan.
Sells standard and giraffe unicycles.
Tel: +49 431 541441
Fax: +49 431 549099
E-mail: gsiegmon@kernphysik.uni-kiel.d400.de
They sell lots of parts for Uni's and Giraffe, and 20 to 26" (28" perhaps) Unicycles including a 48 spoke 26" one. They also sell Miyatas.
E-mail: alivolak@uni.net
WWW: http://www.alivola.com/iunicicl.htm
Sells standard and giraffe unicycles as well as parts.
Sells Unicycle brand, Semcycle, and giraffes from Picher.
Ross Mackintosh
romack@hn.planet.gen.nz
* Phone: (07) 839 9005 * Shoe: (025) 761 141
* Fax: (07) 839 9006
* Snail mail: Box 776, Hamilton, New Zealand
Tel: +64 3 338 6803
Sells Pashley unicycles and parts.
WWW: http://www.unicycle.uk.com/
Sells a variety of unicycle models on the Web.
Tel +44 117 986 6680
fax +44 117 986 6690
They do mail order, and offer a complete range of circus equipment, including unicycles. They are, are far as I know, still run by Pippa Tee and Charlie Dancey. Charlie is the author of two standard works on juggling.
Review written by Tim Sheppard. Contact Butterfingers directly for more information.
Stocks Semcycle, D.M., Pashley
Tel +44 181 390 6855
Sells standard and XL Semcycles.
Phone: 1-800-251-6336
WWW: http://www.coker.com/collect/bigone.html
They are actually a wholesaler, and do not do retail business. They do import the Pashley mountain unicycle, though. They encourage you to have your local bike shop contact them for prices and product availability.
WWW: http://www.ebay.com
Tel: (904) 354-3339
Fax: (904) 354-3488
E-Mail: clayton@aerofast.com
WWW: http://www.aerofast.com/
Has been making unicycles since 1976. Sells their own unicycles.
This company sells Miyatas as well as other brands.
Rideable Bicycle Replicas
2329 Eagle Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501
Phone: 510-523-9938
Fax: 510-521-7145
WWW: http://members.aol.com/semcycle/
E-mail: SEMCYCLE@aol.com
Semcycle XLs and the occasional used unicycle
Tom Miller sells custom built unicycles and resells some other brands, such as Semcycles, Zephyrs and Miyatas. Tom does all of his business over the phone, so you should call him with inquiries rather than writing, and does not send out a catalog until the first order. He does not have business hours per-se, since he works out of his house. His waking hours are between 10am and midnight Eastern time.
Unicycle Source sells unicycles and accessories (safety gear, road gear, cycling apparel), and juggling equipment . Unicycle brands include Coker, Jugglebug, Pashley, Semcycle and Rideable Bicycle Replicas, Continental and Kenda tires. Accessories brands include Harbinger, Boneshieldz, Innovations in Cycling, Canari cyclewear, ProRider and Bicycle Safety, Inc. Juggling equipment brands include Brian Dube' and The Gripp.
Unicycle Source supports the unicycling community by giving a portion of our profits each month to the Unicycling Society of America.
Written by Unicycle Source
Depending on what you are looking for, you might find the parts at a bike shop. If not, though, Tom Miller at the Unicycle Factory probably has it. You can call him in Indiana at (765) 452-2692 to place your order.
You may be able to borrow someone's unicycle - ask around if you don't know anyone. Many "former" unicyclists that still have their unicycle. Ask to borrow it. Or just to try it out for a while. Or to buy it! Used Schwinns are out there (in North America) - DON'T get the cheap kind of uni from a department store. Most used Schwinns do not cost much to buy and only take some chrome polish to make them look good again.
We repeat, do not under any circumstances buy a unicycle in a department store or from a catalog that doesn't let you see how it's constructed. Even for $10 at a garage sale, these shoddy unicycles are three times harder to ride and probably do more damage to our sport than anything else.
This means that any unicycle that either does not have an air tire, or that does not have ball bearings at the wheel. Any (non-giraffe) unicycle that has a one piece crank with pedals that are just kind of stuck on the ends of the crank (tricycle technology) was not actually designed with the intention that it would be ridden, especially by an adult. Under the weight of a rider (any rider) the wheel is very resistant to turning, and the short crank arms compound the problem. I learned to ride on a unicycle like this, and it took a month, which at age 14 is way too long.
Outside of that, the prices of decent unicycles range from around $90 to $250. In the U.S. and Canada, you can get Schwinns and the many variations of Taiwanese unicycles at local bike shops. On the Taiwan models, look for the kind that has a seat that's soft foam rubber all around. These seats bounce quietly when dropped, and take a tremendous amount of drops, on pavement, with scarcely any mark. After that, try for hard plastic bumpers on the seat. This is what Schwinn and Miyata have. By all means try to avoid seats with metal rails at front and rear. This is older technology that usually is mounted on a seat that's too wide in front, and can't stand being dropped.
Other brands like Semcycle, Schwinn, Miyata, DM and Pashley are more durable than the Taiwanese models, and will last longer, especially for riders that weigh more.
Also, try for cotterless cranks. Most brands are these days, but there are still some of the cottered types out there. Cotterless are easier to take care of. Don't know what cotterless means? Your bike shop will.
You will want to make sure the seat height can be adjusted to fit you. The height should be the same as for a bike (Nearly full leg extension with the heel on the pedal). A little shorter is ok but most unicycles are too short to start with for the average adult. Ask at a bike shop for something longer or try Tom Miller (Unicycle Factory: 765-452-2692)
Wheel size: I (Dirk) learned on a 20 inch unicycle and still enjoy it more than the 24 inch. I found it easier to learn on. But if you just want to ride, you may want to go for the 24 inch. If you can, try both sizes out when you go borrowing. If you stick with it you will want both sizes (and more). 20" is best for doing tricks and fitting into small places. 24" or larger is best for outdoor cruising and covering distance, but can still be used for tricks.
So your basic choices in North America are:
Being North Americans, we don't have reliable advice for other parts of the world, so if you would like to add advice for your part of the planet send it to Beirne Konarski (beirne@neo.lrun.com). Also, none of us sell unicycles. You can get more information on retailers elsewhere in the FAQ.
John Foss (jfoss@unicycling.com)
Beirne Konarski (beirne@neo.lrun.com)
Dirk Iwema (dirk@earth.ae.ge.com)
0) Type of tire - One can always buy a better tire, although quality unicycle should come with a unicycle tire (round cross-section; relatively flat or smooth tread for flat surfaces [mountain unicycles should come with knobbies :^]
1.1 Type of rim
a) chromed steel
b) chromed tubular steel
c) alloy
d) chromed alloy
1.2 Type of spoke holes in rim
a) simple straight radial hole
b) simple straight radial hole with recess for spoke's nipple
c) angle of holes matches angle of spokes
d) angle of holes matches angle of spokes; recess for nipple
2.1 Number of spokes (more is better, if all spokes are kept tight)
a) 28
b) 36
c) 40
d) 48
2.2 Thickness of spokes (thicker is better, but weighs a little more)
a) .080 in. (14 gauge)
b) .092 in. (13 gauge)
c) .105 in. (12 gauge)
d) .125 in. (?? gauge)
2.3 Spoking pattern
a) 3 cross
b) 4 cross
c) 3 cross interleaved
d) 4 cross interleaved
2.4 Spoke material
a) normal (steel zinc plated)
b) stainless steel
c) steel chrome plated
3.1 Hub (Various types of heat treating add to the confusion here.)
a) cottered shaft, straight flanges
b) cottered shaft, dished flanges
c) cotterless shaft, straight flanges
d) cotterless shaft, dished flanges
4.1 Bearings (More info welcome here.)
a) unsealed roller bearings
b) unsealed ball bearings
c) sealed roller bearings (less prone to damage when jumping)
d) sealed ball bearings (jumping may cause flat spots on balls)
5.1 Bearing holders
a) bolted on C-bracket (may apply excessive vertical force)
b) snap ring (bearing may be minutely loose in all directions)
c) pressed in holder (bearing must be pressed in with equal force)
d) bolted on pressed in holder (same as c above, except the
pressed fit may be looser as bolts keep bearing from moving.)
5.2 Frame type (Which is better is quite controversial.)
a) flat pressed fork halves bolted together with seat post
b) same as a) with curved sections pressed in for greater rigidity
c) tubular one piece frame with rounded fork crown
d) tubular one piece frame with square fork crown (to put feet on)
5.3 Frame finish
a) baked-on enamel
b) powder coated
c) chrome plated
5.4 Seat post clamp
Z) A bolt for split forks
a) welded on clamp with single bolt
b) separate BMX type clamp with single allen wrench screw
c) separate BMX type clamp with two allen wrench screws
d) same as c), except one screw clamps top of head tube and the
other clamps around the seat post - two inside diameters
6.1 Seat post
a) has holes at 1 inch increments for height adjustment
b) same as a) with seat tilt adjustment
c) straight tube with no holes - very fine height adjustment
d) same as c) with seat tilt adjustment (not really needed)
7.1 Seat (style should fit the individual)
a) poorly designed - self destructs in 1 month of use
b) Schwinn / Semcycle design (does it have bumpers now?)
c) Wide Miyata type design without front handle
d) Narrow Miyata type design with front handle
8.1 Crank arms
a) steel cottered
b) steel cotterless
c) alloy cotterless
9.1 Pedals
a) rubber block, no spindle adjustment
b) plastic, no spindle adjustment
c) rattrap with spindle adjustment (eats shins 8^)
d) plastic with spindle adjustment
Ken Fuchs - kfuchs@winternet.com
Check the rules if you are buying a unicycle for competition. Races generally require a specific size, such as 24" for adults. British juggling competitions usually limit you to a 20" model.
Try to get 40-50 psi or more rated tires and you may overinflate these as well if you like. However, a 32psi tire will work fine, too.
Ken Fuchs - kfuchs@winternet.com
I know Bob Knight who built it. I haven't had the opportunity to have a go on it (I haven't really got the hang of giraffes yet - severe lack of people prepared to lend me theirs to practise on).
I can assure you that it's no problem to change gear. Bob can shift up and down happily while going forward or idling, or probably backwards, knowing him. As I understand it, the only requirement is that one reduce the pedal pressure during a shift, but then as anyone (like me) who rides a two-wheeler with a Sturmey hub knows, that applies to normal bikes and isn't a problem unless one is really standing on the pedals.
Just in case it isn't clear from the photo(another person brought up this topic when they saw a picture of the unicycle. ed.), this beast uses a fixed Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub *not* a derailleur (it's surprising how many people assume that the derailleur is the only possible cycle gear shift). The hub itself is an antique (early 1950s I think), probably worth more than the rest of the unicycle (which was made by Bob and his dad). The equivalent wheel sizes are 20", 24" and 28".
Also, some tires have a direction on them, due to the tread pattern.
Beirne Konarski beirne@neo.lrun.com
Ken Fuchs - kfuchs@winternet.com
To adjust the saddle, loosen the saddle post clamp, bring the saddle pillar to the desired position, then tighten the bolt securely. A loose saddle post clamp will cause the saddle to move out of position while riding.
It is also important to adjust the saddle so that it is properly aligned with the wheel. If it is even slightly misaligned to the left or right, riding becomes difficult. Tighten the bolt firmly so that the saddle does not twist out of alignment.
From Anyone Can Ride a Unicycle by Jack Halpern. Used with permission.
Use a rubber hammer or regular hammer and a block of wood to pound the cotterless cranks on firmly. Place the opposite crankarm on a (another) block of wood on the floor to avoid pounding stress to the spokes and wheel, etc. However, do not pound real hard or the crankarms and possibly even the axle could be damaged.
After the above, snug up the nuts real tight. Your should never have to worry about loose crankarms again, WITHOUT using lock tight. The non-permanent lock tight couldn't hurt though, but be sure the crankarms are on very, very tight before using it!
Ken Fuchs - kfuchs@winternet.com
